The Glorious Frittomelette

crispy new potatoes, chorizo sarta, melted comté, and chives cooked over the fire

I hadn’t built a fire in several weeks due to the fire risk being extremely high, which is common this time of year. The dead leaves and pine needles from winter create a forest floor ripe for high fire conditions, so one has to be very mindful of the environment. Finally, however, the rain has come. It’s been raining heavily the past couple of days; in fact, I am worried about some of the garden getting washed out, but in between we’re getting some proper sunny days. The result can be quite humid, but it’s still the perfect time to be cooking outside. Finding dry wood can be a bit of a challenge, but one that I enjoy.

Living far North means gardening season gets off to a slow start. The only mature plants in the garden presently are chives and mint. Ramp season was short-lived, and it’s worth mentioning there is some controversy about it being easily over-foraged. I did enjoy a pick of ramps from the local farm shop, but I’m always mindful to not buy more than I can use. The neighbor’s hens have been laying like mad, so we always have four or five dozen eggs on hand.

Enter the frittomelette: the perfect thing for shoulder-growing seasons. As you might have guessed, it really is a cross between a frittata and an omelette. One of the great things about the frittomelette is how it’s very, very adaptable. I will change the ingredients based on what is available seasonally. The main characteristic is that I always start with a base of thinly sliced and fried new potatoes. You’re looking for a really nice crisp on both sides, so it’s almost like a potato chip. Nice and salty, too. Then you add the egg and seasonal ingredients. Top with lemon juice and fresh herbs, and you’re in for a real treat. The result is something very hearty with an added layer of crispy, salty potato, which is really such a delight. Ramps or wild garlic would be fantastic as well, if it were a little earlier in the year.

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Here’s the rough recipe -

Serves 1

INGREDIENTS

• 2 medium new or yellow potatoes

• Butter

• Chorizo Sarta, sliced thin (but any cured sausage will do)

• 2 eggs

• Chili flakes

• 2tbsp cream or whole milk

• Comte cheese, or similar for melting

• Handful fresh chives or ramps

• Fresh parsley, chopped

• Fresh lemon wedge

METHOD

Thinly slice the potatoes, as close to paper-thin as possible. Having a sharp knife on hand really does wonders. Over medium-high heat, melt a knob of butter. Once hot, fry the potatoes and add a big pinch of salt. Give them a couple of turns every few minutes. You’re looking for a hearty brown crisp, almost like potato chips. If they are sliced very thin, it won’t take long at all. As the potatoes near perfection, toss in the sausage and cook for a few minutes.

Crack two eggs into a bowl, then add the milk, chili flakes, and salt and pepper. Whisk until combined. Once the potatoes are looking crispy, melt another knob of butter in the pan, followed by pouring in the egg mixture. After a minute, lift the edges of the egg using a spatula while gently tilting the pan, allowing the uncooked egg on the top to run underneath the cooked egg. Repeat this a few times until the egg is cooked. Turn down the heat or remove the pan from the fire to not burn the eggs.

Grate loads of cheese over top the frittomelette and allow everything to melt for a minute. Carefully turn the egg over onto itself to form an omelette shape. Remove from the pan and garnish with fresh parsley, chives, and a squeeze of lemon.